The mountain was first climbed by explorer Marco Pallis in 1933 and remains one of the least climbed 6700-meter peaks in India.
Leo Purgyil Expedition (6791m)
Leo Purgyil / Leo Pargial – 6,791m
12 Days + 2 Buffer Days from Shimla
Kinnaur, Nako & the India-Tibet Border
Glacier Approach, High Camps & Steep Snow Slopes
A Technical 6700m Expedition for Experienced Climbers
Third Highest Peak of Himachal Pradesh
Leo Purgyil (6,791 m)
6791mA remote 6700m technical expedition on the India-Tibet border, with glacier approaches, high camps, steep snow slopes, and a demanding summit ridge.
Leo Purgyil is a 12+2 days guided Himalayan objective in Kinnaur, Himachal Pradesh. It is best suited to climbers looking for a remote 6700m technical kinnaur expedition for experienced mountaineers.
Leo Purgyil / Leo Pargial – 6,791m
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Expedition overview
Leo Purgyil at a glance
Leo Pargial (6791m), also known as Leo Purgyil, is one of the highest and most remote mountains in Himachal Pradesh. Located in Kinnaur on the India-Tibet border, it forms part of the Reo Purgyil massif and is the third-highest peak in Himachal Pradesh.
Altitude
016,791m
Duration
0212 Days + 2 Buffer Days
Season
03Jun-Jul-Aug / Sep
Difficulty
04Difficult Technical Expedition
Leo Purgyil
Leo Purgyil Expedition (6791m)
The story
The Remote Leo Pargial Ascent
Leo Pargial, also known as Leo Purgyil, rises in the Kinnaur district on the India-Tibet border as part of the massive Reo Purgyil massif.
Expedition story
A mountain journey shaped by terrain, weather, and summit-day decisions.
Ascent notes
What the climb feels like on the mountain.
The expedition begins with a long drive from Shimla to Nako through the Sutlej Valley and the historic Hindustan-Tibet Road.
From Nako, climbers move through barren valleys, river crossings, moraines, glacier terrain, and high camps before the final summit ridge.
Because of its altitude and remoteness, Leo Pargial demands excellent fitness, previous high-altitude experience, and strong mountaineering skills.
From the summit, climbers see Reo Purgyil, the Tibetan Plateau, Kinnaur Kailash Range, Spiti Valley, and endless Western Himalayan ranges.
Why this climb works
Why Leo Purgyil Is a Serious Technical Expedition
The climb asks for steady pacing, acclimatization, mountain movement, and summit-day focus.
Field note
Guided does not mean effortless.
The expedition is manageable because the progression is measured, not because the mountain is casual.
Remote Borderland Setting
The mountain lies in Kinnaur near the India-Tibet border, with limited connectivity and a long road approach.
Glacier Approach
The route enters moraine and glacier terrain before Base Camp, Camp 1, and Summit Camp.
High Camps Above 6000m
Summit Camp is established around 6200m below the final summit ridge.
Long Summit Push
Summit day is a 10 km round trip that usually takes 12-15 hours through steep snow slopes and a long ridge.
Previous Experience Required
Previous experience on at least one 6000m peak is required for this difficult expedition.
Route & approach
Expedition Route & Approach
The route begins in Shimla, drives to Nako, then moves on foot through Transit Camp, Base Camp, Camp 1, and Summit Camp before the Leo Pargial summit push and return.
Route rhythm
Approach, acclimatize, move high, summit, return.
Browse the route manually
Itinerary
Day-by-Day Itinerary – Leo Purgyil Expedition (6791m)
Scan the short plan first, then open the detailed view for the field notes behind each expedition day.
14 days / short
Short day plan
14 days
Day 1
Drive from Shimla to Nako (3662m)
01Day 2
Rest and acclimatization at Nako
02Day 3
Trek from Nako to Transit Camp (4200m)
03Day 4
Trek to Base Camp (5000m)
04Day 5
Rest and acclimatization at Base Camp
05Day 6
Move to Camp 1 (5500m)
06Day 7
Move to Summit Camp (6200m)
07Day 8
Rest and acclimatization at Summit Camp
08Day 9
Summit Leo Pargial (6791m)
09Day 10
Summit Camp to Base Camp
10Day 11
Base Camp to Nako Village
11Day 12
Drive from Nako to Shimla
12Day 13
Buffer day
13Day 14
Buffer day
14Safety system
Safety, Training & Leadership
A guided climb with clear checks before the approach, at camp, and before summit movement.
- 01
Professional certified mountain guides and support staff
- 02
High altitude porters and kitchen staff
- 03
Medical kit and oxygen backup
- 04
Satellite communication equipment
- 05
High guide-to-client ratio
- 06
Small groups for better safety and success rate
- 07
Training in crampons, ice axe, rope handling, glacier travel, fixed rope climbing, and self-arrest
Best fit
Who Should Join Leo Purgyil
A good match for fit beginners and trekkers who want a real summit objective with guided pacing, acclimatization, and mountain skills.
Audience
01Experienced 6000m Climbers
Climbers with previous experience on at least one 6000m peak.
Audience
02Technical Mountaineers
Participants comfortable with crampons, ice axe, fixed rope movement, glacier travel, and high camps.
Audience
03Remote Expedition Climbers
Mountaineers looking for one of the least-climbed 6700m objectives in India.
Audience
04Strong Endurance Athletes
Participants able to run 5 km in under 30 minutes, carry a 12 kg backpack, and trek for 8-10 hours continuously.
Planning notes
Expedition details before you arrive
Practical field information for reaching the meeting point, preparing for mountain conditions, and understanding connectivity during the climb.
01
Reporting Point
Shimla, Himachal Pradesh
02
Drop Point
Shimla, Himachal Pradesh
03
Nearest Town
Nako
04
Nearest Airport
Bhuntar Airport, Kullu
05
Nearest Railway Station
Kalka Railway Station
06
Road Access
Overnight Volvo buses are available from Delhi to Shimla.
07
Distance From Delhi
Approximately 620 km
08
Maximum Altitude
6791m
09
First Ascent
Marco Pallis in 1933
10
Network Connectivity
Available in Shimla and Nako only.
11
Temperature
Shimla: 10°C to 25°C, Nako: 5°C to 20°C, Base Camp: -5°C to 10°C, Higher Camps: -10°C to -20°C, Summit: -20°C to -30°C
Trip details
Inclusion, exclusion and carry
A quick reference for what is covered, what stays personal, and what you should pack for the climb.
What is included
0 items
Group 01
Group 02
Group 03
Policies
Payments and cancellation
A simple reference for confirming your seat, clearing the balance, and understanding cancellation windows before the climb.
Payment policy
Confirmation schedule
2 steps
Advance
0130% booking payment
30% advance payment is required to confirm booking.
Balance
0270% balance payment
Remaining balance must be paid before the expedition starts.
Cancellation policy
Refund and weather windows
6 rules
Cancellation 15 days or more before departure: 100% refund or future expedition adjustment.
01Cancellation within 15 days: 50% refund.
02Cancellation within 7 days: No refund and no adjustment.
03If a participant leaves the expedition voluntarily, no refund will be provided.
04The expedition leader has final authority regarding participation, route changes, and summit attempts.
05Mountaineering involves inherent risks. By joining the expedition, participants acknowledge and accept these risks.
06
Policies balance climber safety, logistics, and expedition fairness in high-altitude Himalayan conditions.
Questions
Frequently asked questions
Clear answers to the most common questions about Leo Purgyil Expedition (6791m), training, weather, and completion.
Expedition Gallery
A visual journey through the Leo Purgyil expedition, from Shimla and Nako to Transit Camp, Base Camp, Camp 1, Summit Camp, and the 6791m summit ridge.
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